Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Garlic's of London - The Ethical Modern Ontario Restaurant







Please read my updated review

http://ethicalgourmet.blogspot.ca/2015/05/garlics-of-london-successfully-combines.html 


Garlic’s of London

From Scratch – Modern Rustic Cuisine with Local, Seasonal, Superb Ingredients






481 Richmond St, London, ON N6A 3E4

519-432-4092
dine@garlicsoflondon.com
































Sunday, December 29, 2013

Best Out of Town "Local" Restaurant 2013 - Stratford's Monforte on Wellington

Stratford, Ontario



Best Out of Town "Local" Restaurant 2013
Best Out of Town New Restaurant 2013

Guilty Pleasures at Stratford’s Monforte on Wellington  Redux


By BRYAN LAVERY

     Another renaissance of sorts is now afoot just off the town square in the premises formerly occupied by the Evergreen Terrace on Wellington Street in Stratford.  The new Monforte on Wellington is a casual seasonally –inspired osteria featuring an ever-changing selection of artisanal cheeses, charcuterie, and pastas, salads, soups, preserves, pickles and other signature specialties, prepared by chef Phil Philips and Monforte’s culinary team.
     Chef Philip’s worked in the kitchen at Bijou and has trained under the tutelage of Jamie Kennedy. The kitchen pushes the farm-to-fork philosophy even further, and develops a synergy between the local terroir and the diner, no doubt, inspired by the resolute cheesemaker, Ruth Klahsen, whose deep-rooted affection for all things sustainable, local and artisanal seems to continue to both fortify and nourish her creative drive and innovative entrepreneurism.

     Osteria (oh-stay-REE-ah) is the Italian term for the most casual and down-to-earth amongst restaurant classifications. Traditionally an osteria provided lodging and served simple and inexpensive food and wine. In Italy, travelling through the regions of Emilia Romagna, Molise, Umbria and Abruzzi is where I first became enamored with this style of restaurant. The osterias I gravitated towards in Italy were mainly located in the countryside and were informal gathering places with certain precepts that almost always held true:  short menus, local, seasonal house-made specialties, and sometimes but not always, meals are served at communal tables.

       Crafted by architectural students from the University of Toronto, the furniture is made from reclaimed wood and donated palletes creating a hand-crafted décor from mostly recycled and repurposed materials. The brightly coloured upholstered benches add a touch of pizzazz and accentuate the whitewashed walls.  The ceilings are high with interesting spider-like fixtures with bare bulbs and there is a large picture window facing the street. The kitchen is open to the dining room and there is a passageway beside the kitchen that leads to a 35-seat courtyard with umbrellaed tables for al fresco dining.

      The 35-seat main dining room has a sophisticated straightforward charm with a “We’ve got to get ourselves back to the garden” vibe. There are two or three main chalkboard features each day, prepared from what is seasonal, local, foraged and fermented.  Many of the products are made in-house or sourced from community farms and artisans. On one visit we sat on the terrace and the kitchen staff delivered a pair of cheese and charcuterie boards. They provided us with a friendly in- depth tutorial about the provenance of each ingredient.

     The rich and flavourful charcuterie included: a mound of perfect fatty cubed pancetta, a succulent slab of savoury headcheese (which brought back memories of my grandmother’s kitchen), and farmer David E. M. Martin’s pancetta served with house- made crackers and tiny pots of honey, mustard and red pepper jelly. A selection of luscious, earthy and creamy cheese on offer included: Piacere – Monforte’s own take on the classic French cheese Fleur du Maquis, TRUE BLUE made with Sunnivue Farm’s water buffalo milk was firm, salty and herbaceous and a creamy Black Sheep rolled in vegetable ash.  Klahsen’s philosophy is to “use only seasonal milk from humanely treated animals” for her cheese.  The cheese selection varies depending on availability.

     I ordered a grilled cheese sandwich with both fresh cheese curd and Paridiso, a variation on the classic Italian Taleggio, this semi-soft, washed rind cheese has a piquant bite. Wild leeks, variously called ramps, made a delicious and pungent pesto that was the perfect accompaniment to the sandwich. Dandelion greens with rhubarb vinaigrette, Soiled Reputation organic greens with wild leek vinaigrette and a silky asparagus soup have also vied for my attention.
     We loved the rich, buttery water buffalo ice cream that can be ordered with either a demi-tasse of chocolate sauce or espresso and is served in artfully mismatched bowls with melt-in-your-mouth chocolate chip cookies.

     The restaurant is BYOW with a corkage fee of $15.00, or if you order a glass of VQA wine they might bring you a full bottle and charge you for what you drink. The wine selection is limited and there is a good selection of craft beers. They retain a strong local focus on drinks to keep them consistent with the kitchen’s offerings. We also loved the “Fizzy Water” which was 50 cents a glass.

     There is an area at the front entrance that retails Monforte cheeses, Bauman honey, preserves and other interesting jarred goods- to- go. “This kind of brings things full circle for us,” says Klahsen referring to the restaurant. “For example, when we make cheese we have leftover whey, which we feed to pigs, which can become charcuterie. And the same farmer who raises the pigs grows wheat, which we can make into crackers.”

       The osteria opened in Stratford at the beginning of April, earlier in June, Monforte opened its first stand-alone store in Toronto in Liberty Village. If you like ethical farm-to-table dining that won’t break the bank, Monforte on Wellington, although in its fledgling days is well positioned to be a hands-down frontrunner in Stratford’s culinary scene.  

Monforte on Wellington
80 Wellington Street
Stratford, Ontario
 519-301-7256

 

LONDON ONTARIO’S TOP RESTAURANTS in 2013

 

Bryan Lavery's Picks  

LONDON ONTARIO’S TOP RESTAURANTS in 2013

 
See Updated Mini Reviews on 
 
Best London Ontario Restaurants: The City's Most Delicious Offerings



“We must pass our unbiased impressions on to the readers, while alerting the dining public to the diversity of choice on the culinary scene.”

 For those of you who are reading this blog for the first time, the objective has been to offer a professional insider’s perspective and to contribute to the enthusiasm and discussion about the local and regional culinary culture at large, and about the restaurant community in particular.

Seemingly, restaurant blogs the world over face a similar predicament. Are rating restaurants purely a question of taste? And within that there lies the matter of ingredients, innovation, style, consistency, service and much more. We place importance on other criterion such as, the wine list, the atmosphere, the setting and obviously, the price.

There are plenty of restaurants whose simple virtues deserve to be recognized without too much bravado or angst. Hopefully I will get to all of them in time. However, I am not in league with the restaurant business to hype underserving chefs and their establishments.

As patronising as it must sound, my personal mission has been to encourage people to dine out and to support culinary tourism and the farmers and culinary artisans by helping to reinforce community initiatives.

The food media are very necessary members of the culinary community. Like any thoughtful patron, I hope that I continually bring appreciation and sensibility to the table. But the food media’s mission goes beyond that. We must pass our unbiased impressions on to the readers, while alerting the dining public to the diversity of choice on the culinary scene.

Good writing furnishes you with enough information and insight to enable you to make informed decisions, while helping to arbitrate the standards of dining out. If you don’t have a good, strong food media — whether you love them or despise them — you don’t have the same degree of interest, enthusiasm and accountability.

One of the greatest satisfactions joys about writing a blog on the culinary scene is “unearthing the diamond in the rough”. In my opinion, among the disappointments are discovering restaurants that don’t live up to their reputations, or the complaining owner who has lost interest in the business and the writing is on the wall. Almost as bad is the culinary equivalent of grey: dull at worst, inoffensive at best. Or the one-trick pony — the great restaurant whose menu never changes, and quickly the food becomes stagnant.

Even more obnoxious are those hosts/servers who ride on the chef’s laurels and the restaurant’s former accolades, thinking the chef’s/restaurant’s reputation gives them carte blanche to dispense rude, indifferent or poor service to their customers.

Despite the changing definition of restaurant professionalism, poor customer service and unfriendly reservation policies disappoint us, and good service fosters loyalty, which in turn inspires repeat business and great word-of-mouth. Every time I return to certain restaurants, it hits me just how much uninterested service irks me and how profoundly irritated its patrons must feel, even when the food is the cream of the crop.

Reading someone else’s assessment of a restaurant is not necessarily enough for every reader to evaluate a restaurant. The real way to do a restaurant justice is to eat there. These are my professional opinions.
  

 

In Ontario, we are very fortunate to have many talented chefs, restaurateurs and culinary retailers who are not just advocating eating and drinking local, and eating seasonal, they are actively and creatively enhancing and developing new region-specific cuisines. As for their cuisine, it’s made from scratch and it’s innovative. They are implementing time-honoured traditions and trusted techniques yet delivering ingredients in revolutionary ways. They are the new culinary vanguards. Many of these trailblazers of the cutting-edge and emerging culinary regionalism in Ontario's Southwest are profiled on this blog. Our true culinary stars are not only our farmers, but also those labouring in restaurant, hotel and market kitchens throughout the city, offering up some of Ontario’s finest food and most innovative drink experiences.

 

London Ontario’s Top Restaurants in 2013


The latest news on: restaurants, chefs, farmers` markets, culinary retail and food events. The ethicalgourmet curates the best restaurants in Ontario and beyond. Serving them up to you in an entertaining and accessible way so you can appreciate the best the area has to offer.

We’ve wined there, we’ve dined there and now we want to share our best places to drink and dine in in London’s top dining destinations, as selected by ethicalgourmet in 2013:
"2013 was the year of the Modernist Chef as the indie- hipster artiste."



 


Best Chef – Daniel Markovic, Kantina Restaurant


Best Pastry Chef – Michelle Lenhardt, River Room


 


Best Restaurant Dining Experience – River Room


Best New Restaurant – Byron FreeHouse 


Best Fine Dining Restaurant – David’s Bistro


Best Farm-to-Table Restaurant– The Only on King


Best Modernist Dining – Kantina Restaurant


Best Overall Dining – Garlic’s of London


People's Choice – Michael's on the Thames


Best Gastropub – Church Key Bistro


Best Diner – The Early Bird


Best Deli – Billy’s


Best Bakery/Cafe – Organic Works Bakery


Best Restobar – Che  Restobar


Best Health Conscious Menu – Blackfriars Bistro


Best Hotel Dining – Idlewyld Inn


Best Private Dining – Blu Duby


 Best Alfresco Dining – Black Trumpet


Best Restaurant Interior Design – Tamarine by Quynh Nhi


Best Restaurant Wine List (Ontario) – The Only on King


Best Restaurant Wine List (Overall) – David’s Bistro


Best Restaurant Craft Beer – Milos Craft Beer


Best Caterer– North Moore Catering


Best Organic – The Root Cellar


Best Italian – Abruzzi


Best Ethiopian – Addis Ababa


Best Latin American – Tru Taco


Best Chinese – The Chinese Barbeque


Best Greek – Mykonos


Best Hungarian –The Budapest


Best Indian – The Raja


Best Korean – Korean House


Best Mediterranean – Aroma 


Best Polish – Unique Food Attitudes


Best Thai – Thaifoon


Best Vietnamese – Tamarine by Quynh Nhi


Best Restaurant Service – Blu Duby


OUT OF TOWN


Best "Local" Restaurant – Monforte-on Wellington, Stratford


Best Fine Dining Restaurant – Mercer Hall, Stratford


Best New Restaurant -The Bruce


 


 


 


 




 

Monday, December 23, 2013

Not All Farmers’ Markets are Created Equal - The Sale of VQA Wine at Ontario’s Farmers’ Markets

Not All Farmers’ Markets are Created Equal

Among the Questions to be Clarified Include:  What Constitutes a Farmers’ Market?  Which Farmers’ Market will be Eligible?
A big question on everyone’s mind is what will be the qualification and restrictions on which markets will be allowed to sell VQA wine?  Will customers be able to sample, taste and buy?  No doubt, both the farmers’ market and the winery will have to meet additional licencing requirements for approval through the LCBO.

The term farmers’ market has been used to describe many different types of facilities whose mission is to foster community well-being and local economic development through the establishment of a venue for local and small business incubation. This creates an economic multiplier effect to neighboring businesses, and a place where the community have greater access to safe, healthy, locally- produced and environmentally friendly food and where growers and producers can market their goods directly to consumers.
Ministry spokesperson Abigail Dancey said there’s no decision on what qualifies as a farmer’s market. “I don’t have a firm answer. We are still working on the details,” said Dancey, who stated a pilot project would be launched next year.

The Ministry has yet to provide detailed clarification around implementation and it appears that there will be significant work ahead both at the policy level and how the logistics of this pilot project will be successfully rolled out as soon as it becomes feasible, but I suspect, not until further industry and stakeholder consultation even though we have been down this road before.
From past experience, additional questions to ponder include: whether it will be mandatory for a winery market stall to have hard walls, what regulatory controls will be imposed on the premises in order to limit access to alcohol, will wineries be permitted to unite to decrease overhead costs or increase access to markets, how will wine be transported and warehoused, and whether a winery principal will be required to be on the premises to sell (as opposed to an agent or employee), as some  farmers’ markets require this compliance from their growers and farmers.

What we are reading and hearing is that, “essentially, what is being proposed is an add-on endorsement to an existing winery license. Wineries are permitted to sell their wines from their own premises and in some cases from satellite outlets. The endorsement would simply expand a winery’s retail channels to include farmers’ markets.” 
Not all farmers’ markets are created equal and there are differing criteria as to what constitutes a proper farmers’ market. In some cases the definition is also a municipal issue.
In London Ontario, the Middlesex Health Unit defines a farmers’ markets exemption from the Food Premises Regulation when the majority (51% or greater) of vendors operating the stalls/booths at the market are producers of farm products who are primarily selling or offering for sale their own products. “Farm products” means products that are grown, raised or produced on a farm and intended for use as food and include, without being restricted to, fruits and vegetables, mushrooms, meat and meat products, dairy products, honey products, maple products, fish, grains and seeds and grain and seed products.

Farmers’ Markets Ontario is the provincial association representing the province’s more than 166 farmers’ markets that meet particular criterion. They have been generously supported through the Ontario Farmers’ Market Strategy.  Farmers’ Markets Ontario is solely focused on assisting the development of community-based farmers’ markets, so if you are in the position to run a private market they do not offer support.
 Farmers’ markets  as defined by Farmer’s Market Ontario are seasonal, multi-vendor, community –driven (not private) organization selling agricultural food, art and craft products including home-grown produce, home-made crafts and value-added products where the majority of vendors are primary producers (including preserves, baked goods, meat, fish, dairy products etc.)

Farmer’s Market Ontario on its website lists 165 markets, including in Woodstock, St. Thomas, Stratford, Sarnia and Exeter and the seasonal Outdoor Farmers’ Market at Covent Garden in downtown London.
There has been an increase in the amount of farmers’, community, municipal and privatized markets across the province which is now estimated to be in excess of 350.
As I get more news I will update this story.







The Sale of VQA Wine at Ontario’s Farmers’ Markets


The Sale of VQA Wine at Ontario’s Farmers’ Markets

Apparently, Ontario will be revamping provincial liquor laws to permit VQA wines made from regulated homegrown grapes to be sold at farmers' markets.  On Dec 16, Ontario Premier Kathleen Wynne, who doubles as agriculture minister, announced a $75-million program to enhance the province’s wine and grape industry, which will allow the sale of certified VQA wine at farmers’ markets.
Many in the industry recognize this advance as a great concept but wonder if the proposed pilot program is still too restrictive and protectionist by limiting it to only VQA wineries. The announcement constitutes a minor victory, with the long- term goal to have the Province of Ontario ditch prohibition-era LCBO regulations and join the rest of the country by revamping dated liquor laws. British Columbia, Alberta, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Quebec already allow sale of local wines at farmers’ markets. 
The announcement although welcomed has been met with plenty of skepticism. The fact remains; this is not the first time that politicians have endorsed selling wine at farmers’ markets. In September of 2008, Dalton McGuinty’s Liberal Government, and the LCBO decided to allow wine to be sold in farmers’ markets; nonetheless a variety of restrictions both social and regulatory resulted in failure of the initiative.
There are those who question why the latest announcement is exclusionary and not more comprehensive in scope.  At the very least they are hoping that this will pave the way for expanding additional product offerings in the future to include a wider range sales of local craft beer, wine and artisanal spirits at farmers’ markets and beyond.
One would think that it is a no-brainer, Ontario's licenced restaurants, winery tasting rooms, and micro-breweries are already watchdogs for acceptable practice and culture of the responsible service of alcohol.

The current government says the initiative is part of the roll-out of the 2009 Wine and Grape Strategy, which involves the creation  of an Ontario wine fund to purchase specialized equipment and machinery, as well as better marketing for wines locally and around the world. As well, a wine secretariat — to reduce red tape and help grape growers and wineries be more competitive is in the process of being instituted.
Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA)
Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) sets a framework by which standards for quality wine production made from Ontario grapes and appellations for wine regions are established. From quality standards for grape growing and winemaking, to comprehensive testing and truth in labeling and consumer safety standards, all stages of the regulation are stringent and intensive.
The Grape Growers of Ontario is the official organization that represents 500 grape growers in the province, including the three designated viticulture areas: Niagara Peninsula, Prince Edward County, the North shore of Lake Erie or Pelee Island.
To qualify for the VQA, wineries must use only grapes grown in the three designated viticulture areas. Non-grape wines or wines that do not meet this geographical criterion don’t qualify and in addition to giving up the majority of the revenue they generate outside their own vineyards, those who are not in a VQA-designated area for grapes; or fail to qualify for VQA status cannot put “Made in Ontario” on their labels.
Several people I have spoken with our concerned that a VQA Ontario designation will significantly restrict the wine varieties wineries will be able to offer at farmers’ markets now and in the future. There are already comprehensive testing requirements, registrations, audits and volume fees that come with a VQA designation. And it takes a couple years to get a VQA registration for wine as the grapes need to be registered and tracked from harvest to bottle.

Hillary Dawson, president of the Wine Council of Ontario – an industry group self-described as the “champion” of VQA wines – argues the number of wineries producing 100% made-in-Ontario product that don’t qualifying for VQA membership is unbelievably limited. In the past, Dawson wondered whether farmers’ markets are worth pursuing. She stated a preference for private wine stores dotted across the province to open up an even larger market. “I think the opportunity is so commercially small,” said Dawson. “Is that going to grow our industry? Not a chance.”
According to data collected from the Alcohol and Gaming Commission of Ontario, there over 140 licensed wineries including grape and fruit wineries of which 108 wineries produce VQA wines.

Questioned whether the VQA would contemplate expanding its membership criterion to include other made-in-Ontario wines such as fruit wines from Ontario’s 27 licensed fruit wineries, Ms. Dawson has been quoted as saying, “ the VQA  is important enough and has driven value enough that we don’t want to dilute it.”
The Ontario Viniculture Association had lobbied for years for a relaxation of the rules, arguing its VQA wines are made only with Ontario grapes. In addition to its first-rate grape wines, Ontario boasts an notable selection of fruit wine which is produced from non-grape products, including apples, blueberries, cherries, currants, elderberries, loganberries, pears, raspberries, strawberries and honey. By law fruit wines have to use 100% Ontario fruit so they are 100% Ontario product but are not given the same privileges as grape wines. At the end of the day, it all comes from the ground in Ontario.

Small wineries that stand to gain the most from the farmers’ market program are the ones who are likely to be excluded if it is strictly a VQA initiative. Mead and hard ciders are not produced from grapes and therefore can't receive a VQA designation. Currently there is no designation for a 100% Ontario hard cider or mead. Haliburton’s Moon Shadows Winery is the only winery in the province licensed to produce maple syrup-based wine and would not be eligible.
Other provinces, most recently British Columbia, realize the benefits to both fruit producers and their clients, and have permitted the sale of locally produced craft beer, wine and cider at its farmers’ markets. 

Critics chafe that the VQA Act that initially supported a struggling wine industry that was constantly losing out to imported products has become a cartel and a closed exclusionary group: “The playing field for wineries in Ontario is not level. There are rules that apply to the influential wineries and rules that apply to everybody else.”


Sunday, November 24, 2013

Who Among us wants to be Labeled a Cheapskate or Worse?


Some Thoughts on Tipping

As we approach the holiday season this is a good time of year to talk about common practices in the restaurant industry. First of all, I will identify myself as a thoughtful tipper. This is not something that I feel the need to broadcast, but it does ensure a convivial relationship with service staff who may not otherwise be particularly enamored with my interviewing and interrogation skills and not everyone expects or appreciates a culinary inquisition.
Tipping remains a controversial and peculiar phenomenon of the hospitality sector and other service-oriented businesses. Most people who argue for the abolishment of tipping do not realize that the majority of servers in Ontario earn an hourly rate just below the standard minimum wage.
Tipping is the the accepted practice to subsidize incomes in the labour-intensive hospitality industry. It is also an opportunity for patrons to show their appreciation for good service. It would be ideal if everyone were compensated so well they did not need to rely on tips. However, this is not the case, and many professionals depend on the extra remuneration. Most people of my acquaintance agree that the unspoken implication today is that only good service merits a tip.

A number of studies suggest that tipping may not be as much of an incentive for providing good service as is commonly assumed. Several years ago, Cornell University’s school of hotel administration released a study that showed, “there is rather a weak relationship between the size of the tip and the level and quality of service one receives The amount left as a tip by diners is influenced more by bill size and the fear of disappointing the server than by good service.”
Other reports indicate that the carriage of the server and even his or her greeting has a significant impact on tipping. Research indicates men are likely to tip more than women and individuals seem to tip better than people in groups. Amusing, entertaining and eccentric behavior, when it is appropriate, can increase a gratuity.

Studies indicate that patrons also tip more in restaurants when their bill is presented on a tip tray with a credit card insignia. The standard for excellent service still remains 20 percent of the total bill, minus the taxes. In exceptional circumstances, a larger gratuity is not uncommon. Poor, rude or grossly inattentive service should not be rewarded at all.
It is common practice for servers to  “tip out the house” at the end of each shift. “The house” usually refers to tipping the cooks in the kitchen, the bar- tender and sometimes the host and busboy; sometimes it’s  just the management or the dishwasher. In some cases, if the gratuity is not large enough, the server actually ends up paying out of his pocket to serve the table. Another pet peeve of servers is the patron who uses a gift certificate and only tips on the remaining balance of the check in excess of the gift certificate amount.

The most annoying and unprofessional tendency I encounter comes from the server who inquires; “Do you need change?” It is clearly the server’s obligation to return your change. He or she should never assume that the change is meant as a gratuity unless the patron has specifically said so.
Who among us wants to be labeled a cheapskate or worse? And for those of you who don’t follow the rules of polite societyyou can bet that your disgruntled server has a very long memory and is likely plotting revenge for your next visit.

Friday, November 1, 2013

The Foodie’s Place in the Culinary Pecking Order


The Foodie’s Place in the Culinary Pecking Order

Pecking order is the colloquial term for a hierarchal system of social organization. For the record, the original usage referred to the expression of dominance in chickens. With the keen interest in all things culinary, it should not surprise anyone to learn that there is a gastronomic pecking order. At the bottom of the gastronomic hierarchy is goinfre (greedy guts), then goulu (glutton), gourmand, (one who enjoys eating), friand (epicure; one who with discriminating taste takes pleasure in fine food and drink), gourmet (a connoisseur of food and drink), and finally the gastronome (one with a serious interest in gastronomy).  

Let’s not overlook “foodie”, a contemporary term that is frequently and incorrectly used as a synonym for gourmet or epicure. Most people are blind to the fact that there is a distinct difference in their meanings. The foodie is an amateur or hobbyist and a gourmet has the educated palate and refined taste of a professional.

Foodie, like the expression eatery, is a relatively new term in our modern culinary lexicon. Both of those terms have given me a lot of flak. The word eatery I am only now shamefully surrendering to after initially finding the term not only loathsome but unappetizing. My complaint is that “eatery” is being used inaccurately; it is an interloper on the culinary landscape, evoking images of cheap, usually inferior restaurants with undiscriminating all-you-can-eat offerings and other unspeakable horrors. Recently, I have begun to hear the term eatery to describe fine dining establishments. I am seeing the expression bandied about in venerated pages of prestigious publications.

With the simultaneous escalation of the food media, food apps and camera phones I try to keep my mind open to change. Expressions that seemed to have no root in our culinary lexicon are suddenly ubiquitous.

Some people self-identify as foodies to avoid being characterized as the type of food snob they associate with old-school gourmets. When people say to me, “You’re such a foodie” it makes my skin crawl. I don’t want to be categorized or lumped in with foodies despite their clichéd glory. The term sounds too much like groupie, and groupie, to my way of thinking, has the implication of being obsessively indiscriminate. For some reason the word “foodie” has always seemed too gung ho, too disingenuous and more about status than anything else. Several people have told me that I am mistaken, that I am a food snob. 

Writing in the Guardian, Paul Levy, who claims paternity of the term foodie with colleague Ann Barr, admits that American restaurant critic, food writer and novelist Gael Greene may have coined the term foodie at about the same time in 1982. “What started as a term of mockery shifted ground, as writers found that "foodie" had a certain utility, describing people who, because of age, sex, income and social class, simply did not fit into the category ‘gourmet’, which we insisted had become ‘a rude word’.”

We can see how far we have come by a legendary satirical sketch on the IFC series Portlandia (you can watch it on YouTube) caricaturing foodies and called, "Is the chicken local?" The episode goes like this:  A waitress approaches a man and woman seated at a table and asks if they’re ready to order. The woman says she’d like to know more about the chicken. “The chicken is a heritage breed, woodland-raised chicken that’s been fed a diet of sheep’s milk, soy and hazelnuts,” the waitress states. “This is local?” the man asks, leaning attentively on his hand. “Yes,” the waitress replies. “Oregon organic, or Portland organic?” the woman asks. “It’s just all-across-the-board organic,” the waitress answers. The waitress leaves for a moment, and then returns with a file. “His name was Colin,” she says. “Here are his papers.” The questions get more intense and exhaustive, to the point that the waitress says, “I can’t speak to that level of intimate knowledge”. The diners then excuse themselves, promising to return but first they need to see where he was raised and lived, before they eat “Colin”. Although this satirical sketch mocks foodies, as consumers we should be aware of where our food is being sourced.

In my experience, those characterized by the French term goinfre (greedy guts) suffer a ravenous disposition. They are hard to stomach due to their selfish, insatiable appetites. Gluttony is often an emotional escape, a sign that something is eating you. Gluttons indulge their voracious appetites indiscriminately and over-consume to the point of waste.

Gourmand is an all-encompassing term for acolytes who take great pleasure in good food but who are routinely unacquainted with etiquette. They lack the skills of proper refinement while being over-fond of eating.

At the next level, we find the epicure. This term has had a renaissance but is still sometimes used to lampoon those devoted to the pleasures of the table. The Oxford Companion of Food says the term “derived from the Greek philosopher Epicurus, who declared happiness to be the highest good, which came to mean, in a food and wine contest, a person of refined tastes.”

Gourmet denotes even more respectability and gravity in culinary matters. This French term originally meant “cultivated wine-taster.” Gourmets tend to be discriminating in their eating habits and sophisticated, with a cultivated and professional interest in culinary matters.

The gastronome has reached the highest level, taking great strides to comprehend the most subtle nuances of taste. It is a pleasing word, gastronome: unfortunately it has become archaic. The gastronome’s discerning palate and quest for illumination have been confused with pretension and snobbery. The fact is that gastronomy is the study of the art and science of food and the relationship between food and culture.

I have noticed that gastronomes and foodies have at least one thing in common: they both seem to have a strong desire to impart their observations to others.
 


BRYAN LAVERY

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

The Case for New-Style Food Trucks in London, Ontario

The Case for New-Style Food Trucks in London, Ontario

London City Council agreed to get public feedback on proposed pilot program to allow new-style food trucks. The current bylaw is outdated, because it was drafted to deal with catering trucks, hotdog carts and ice cream vendors.

Multicultural “gourmet street food” food trucks are trending. They've been building in popularity thanks to food shows, farmers’ markets and culinary events across North America. In London, the food truck phenomenon is just in the midst of emerging. Although the process is still in its preliminary stages, the possibility of permitting food trucks and other mobile food vendor vehicles as: gourmet food trailers, mobile market food trucks and ethnic- catering-type food trucks are gaining grassroots momentum.

Modern food trucks serve a diverse variety of healthy options and cultural foods in other cities. They are positioned to incubate new businesses and become an alternative launching pad, for healthy, creative food. There is, of course, a big difference between the greasy-spoon chip wagon and the food truck that serves healthy gourmet or ethnic street foods.

We like food trucks because they stimulate culinary innovation and diversity, draw culinary tourists, provide employment, and contribute revenue to the city. They help stimulate community, and are destined to become an important part of the social and culinary fabric of the city.

Local proponents of food trucks have concrete short-term goals. Their principal goal is to introduce the growing food truck industry to London in a thoughtful and articulate way, by creating guidelines and following best practices, so the current restaurant culture can continue to be successful and not feel undermined or threatened by food trucks.

Food trucks have their detractors in the restaurant community. But, they also have their champions. The argument against food trucks is that they're stealing the business of more established bricks-and-mortar- restaurants.

It is true that food trucks have some advantages over a traditional eat-in restaurant. Mobility and the ability to travel to where the customers are is a definite plus. Generally speaking, food trucks have lower overhead, compared to a restaurant, and require less staff. However, a food truck is still a labour-intensive business that requires a lot of work and attention. Entrepreneurial food truck owners often put in long days and have comparable difficulties to restaurateurs, such as slow seasons, unpredictable weather, sluggish economy, red-tape and bureaucracy.

Food trucks are subject to standardized health and safety regulations and inspections. In some cities they are required to adhere by distance restrictions; a buffer zone separating them from existing restaurants.

Another negative stereotype is that they are bad for the community and are trying to undermine efforts to feed kids nutritious meals. In reality, many food trucks are providing a much healthier alternative to fast food chains.

Food Truck Eats in Stratford in coordination with Ontario Food Trucks came together in the Stratford market square last year. The event saw gourmet food trucks from GTA alongside local chefs with their own pop up food stalls for the day. The food items presented were authentic, street food-inspired dishes that also featured Perth County farmers and producers.

Local entrepreneur, Dave Cook, wants to launch a food truck this summer, selling fair trade coffee, ethically-sourced chocolate and cold beverages. The truck would be stationed at predetermined locations on weekdays and travel to special events on evenings and weekends. Fire Roasted wants to work with local restaurateurs and chefs, community partners, like the city and various economic development organizations to get more food trucks on city streets.


Bryan Lavery















Sunday, March 3, 2013

lnternational Skating Union (lSU) Championships – Diners Journal

lnternational Skating Union (lSU) Championships 2013 – Diners Journal London, Ontario


Dining  in Canada's London  at “The Worlds”

The International Skating Union (lSU) Championships are a week away. Out-of-town visitors are already arriving in our city.

Watching “The Worlds” live at the Budweiser Gardens will be a unique event. Experiencing the tension and electricity, witnessing the speed and skill, and seeing the performances unfold will be a not-to-be-missed sporting spectacular. This event is considered to be the most prestigious of the lnternational Skating Union (lSU) Championships and with the exception of the Olympic title, a world title is considered to be the highest competitive achievement in figure skating.

Not only will the event put London, Ontario on the lnternational hosting map, but it will provide a legacy for the city to support future events of this scope and nature.

The annual event moves around the globe, attracting more than 50,000 spectators and showcasing the 165 skaters from over 40 countries. It is anticipated that over 350 media representatives will be present. Approximately 500 volunteers have been recruited to ensure that the programme will run smoothly and successfully. This will be the first sporting event held in downtown London to be televised around the world to 60 million viewers in roughly sixty countries.

General Manager of Tourism London, John Winston, says virtually every hotel room in the city is booked. Marty Rice, Director of Leisure Travel, Advertising and Travel Media from Tourism London and Downtown London manager, Janette McDonald, are encouraging restaurants to be open later from Wednesday March 13th to Saturday March 16th, since the final events at the Budweiser Gardens will end at approximately 10:30 pm and many of the visitors, judges, performers/skaters would like to go out after and have a good dinner at a restaurant. Downtown restaurateurs, especially those in walking distance to Budweiser Gardens, are bracing for a busy week.

Downtown London has announced that they will be hosting a welcome centre at 123 King Street for the duration of the championships. They are a downtown resource for everyone, so feel free to stop by from 9am -11pm, if you have any questions during the event. Tourism London will also have several concierge stations to welcome guests set up around the city. Downtown the concierge stations will be set up at the Marriot Hotel on Colborne Street and Holiday Inn Express on Dundas Street. http://www.londontourism.ca/Inside-London

To make it easier for residents and visitors to find parking, the city has created a map with all public and private lots available downtown. The map also indicates road closures and some monthly parking lot closures around the Budweiser Gardens. With thousands of visitors and hundreds of buses and shuttles in the downtown area, getting around may take a little longer than usual.

London’s 2013 Local Flavour Culinary Guide showcasing London’s best restaurants with a focus on farm-to-table dining will be available all over the city. London's Local Flavour Culinary Guide 2013

London offers a multitude of unique dining establishments within an easy walk to Budweiser Gardens, and a number of gems worth a short drive. For those visiting London for the first time, and for locals looking for a quick refresher course on the dining scene close to the action, eatdrink magazine will be doing a special "Where to Dine" feature in their March/April issue. There is also an official Light up London handbook, in addition to the ISU official programme.

Here are some of my favourites:

Addis Ababa

Noteworthy restaurants can pop up in the most unexpected places. This hospitable gem is tucked inauspiciously in a row of buildings between Burwell and Maitland on Dundas Street.. T.G. and Sam guide the uninitiated to select from a menu of outstanding perfectly prepared Ethiopian specialties that are elaborately spiced. Vegetarians and expats flock here. 465 Dundas Street (at Maitland) 519.433.4222

Abruzzi Ristorante

Abruzzi is downtown London’s, premiere Italian-inspired restaurant, an up-to-date epicurean hot spot serving both modern and emblematic regional specialties. Owners Rob D’Amico and Chef Dave Lamer’s offerings are intuitive, often iconic, prepared with locally-sourced and quality ethnic ingredients. A superior wine list has plenty of interesting consignments. 119 King Street 519- 675-9995

Auberge du Petit Prince

Chef focuses on good, simple, seasonal, country- French cuisine, such as shrimp au pistou, confit of duck, vichyssoise and French onion soup. The pièce de résistance: the delicious escargot fondue. Dine in sophistication, with crystal and linen. Extensive wine cellar 458 King Street (at Maitland) 519-434-7124

Avenue Dining at the Idlewyld

Owner Marcel Butchey and Chef Julie Glaysher create a culinary experience that is both sophisticated and classic. The restaurant is a reflection of the casual elegance that the Idlewyld has built its reputation around. Plaudits for the cozy ambience, innovative cuisine, bravura and artistry on each plate. Jazz Nights. 36 Grand Avenue 519-433-2891

Billy’s Deli

Billy’s Deli on Dundas Street has been a downtown landmark for thirty years. For lunch, specialty deli sandwiches like the quintessential Reuben and Montreal smoked meat are made with a quarter pound of meat, warm and sliced off the brisket. There are always interesting daily blackboard specials designed to entice diners, and these offerings add seasonality to the extensive menu. Billy’s is known for its fantastic baking. 113 Dundas Street

Blu Duby

Clever and witty service is a Blu Duby hallmark. Chefs Alicia Hartley and Dani Gruden-Murphy combine comfort food classics with Asian and Mediterranean twists to make a recession-friendly menu. Beef cheek tacos with Gruyère hits a high note. Blu Duby continues its ascent. Diverse Wine List. 32 Covent Market Place 519-433-1414

Budapest

A local gem with lots of red velvet and unintended kitsch, Doyenne Marika Hayek has been delighting clients by serving Hungarian specialities in this traditional old- world tavern setting for over 50 years. Of course, you must try the schnitzel or the stuffed veal — the spätzle is also delicious —save room for the palacsinta. 348 Dundas Street 519 439 3431

Che Resto Bar

Marvin Rivas fetes patrons at his welcoming Latin-American-inspired restaurant. This chic hot-spot features exposed brick walls, a granite bar, and massive light fixtures. The menu has a distinct Peruvian flavour, influenced by Chef German Nunez’s heritage. The tuna ceviche, yucca poutine and skirt steak tacos are to die for. Interesting wine and exotic cocktail lists. 225 Dundas Street (at Clarence); 519-601-7999

Church Key Bistro Pub

Vanessa and Pete Willis’s Church Key is a downtown gastro pub with farm-to-table cuisine and an impressive selection of craft beers. Chef Michael Anglestad follows in the modern British tradition by specializing in traditional food prepared with innovation and finesse. Sea scallops wrapped in house smoked salmon, drizzled with grapefruit & rice wine syrup and togarashi aioli are nirvana. 476 Richmond Street, Street (North of Queens Avenue) 519-936-0960

David’s Bistro

David`s presents perfectly executed classic regional French-inspired specialities and has developed a strong and rustic culinary signature. French Cuisine is all about tradition and consistency, and nobody does it better, night after night. The bistro with its tiny bar, vibrant red walls and black-checked tablecloths is a venerated downtown culinary destination. Extensive and ever-changing consignment wine selection. The succulent confit of duck is requisite. 432 Richmond Street (at Carling) 519 667 0535

Dragonfly Bistro

Donald and Nora Yuriann have an irresistible kitchen, a moderately priced menu, and service that is welcoming. If you are planning to visit for Indonesian Rijsttafel on Monday nights, be sure to make a reservation. This is a hidden gem in plain sight on Richmond Row. 715 Richmond Street 519.432.2191

The Early Bird

This red-hot, retro diner has added an additional 28 seats to the premises to accommodate line ups. The adjoining Night Owl is now a cozy Bourbon bar. Signature dishes include: the King-sized turducken club sandwich made with turkey, chicken and duck; perogies and Montreal smoked meat that is made on site. Save room for the bacon-fried pickles. These are dishes with real soul. 355 Talbot St., 519-439-6483

Garlic’s of London

Edo Pehilj`s Garlic’s is the prototype for the ethical modern Ontario restaurant. The cooking repertoire of rising culinary stars, Chef Joshua Fevens and Chef Chad Steward is influenced by a strong commitment to supporting local and sustainable food and agriculture which has been instrumental in helping to raise the bar for intelligent and ethical dining in London. 481 Richmond Street 519-432-4092

Kantina Café

Owner Miljan Karac and Culinary Rock Star/Chef Danijel “Dacha” Markovic proof their ferocious artistry by reinterpreting classic Balkan –inspired cuisine in their chic but casual downtown restaurant. This is a scratch kitchen and all items are made in-house and by hand. The menus are hyper-local and artisanal, with thoughtful and exciting riffs on an iconic indigenous cuisine. 349 Talbot Street 519- 672 5862

La Casa Ristorante

Consistency and familiarity are the hallmarks of the La Casa experience. Chef Scott “Scotty” Sanderson’s menus are rooted in the Italian tradition. Pastas and pizzas purists will appreciate the house made offerings. Sanderson’s, Rabbit Straccetti (twisted rags) with Ontario rabbit ragu, red pepper, fennel, tomato and Romano cheese, alone is worth the visit. 117 King Street (across from Covent Garden Market) 519-434-2272

Massey’s Fine Indian Cuisine

Chef Patson Massey shows his expertise with the combining and roasting of exotic spices, subtle and complex, bestowing and building flavors to great effect. A variety of vegetarian offerings and classic favourites like: smoky-spiced Baingan Patiala, everything tandoori, butter chicken, nann, and various exotic accompaniments. 174 King Street (near Richmond) 519-672-2989

Marienbad Restaurant

Marienbad is located in one of London’s oldest heritage buildings. A popular downtown restaurant, Marienbad brings a polished European flair to downtown dining, in a casual atmosphere. The menu features European and Austro-Germanic specialties, signature dishes include an exceptional steak tartare and schnitzel, and there is a superior beer selection. 122 Carling Street (at Talbot) 519 679 9940

Michael’s on The Thames

Enjoy Continental cuisine in the relaxing atmosphere of a stone fireplace, a view overlooking the Thames River, and the elegance of a Baby Grand. Specializing not only in old-world continental cuisine, but also in the classic European-style tradition of tableside cooking, which includes: steak Diane, Chateaubriand and classic flambéed desserts, as well as signature flaming after-dinner coffees. 1 York Street (at the bridge) 519 672 0111

Milos Craft Beer Emporium

London’s premier craft beer destination owned and operated by publican Milos Kral. Chef Matt Reijnen prepares menus that reflect their farm-to-table commitment and passion for everything local. 23 micros on tap, with excellent style variation. Craft beer enthusiasts and serious hop heads are quickly making this local landmark part of Ontario’s rich pub culture. 420 Talbot Street North (at Carling) 519 601 4447

Only on King

Hot-shot Chef/owner Paul Harding plays to all his strengths with a superior grasp on the tenets of terroir. Harding’s farm-to-table philosophy and a cooking repertoire continue to impress while attracting savvy diners. If you are looking for your inner gastronome this is the place. — Foie gras parfait and ravishing charcuterie. Standout Sunday brunch. 172 King Street (519) 936-2064

The Springs

Chef Andrew Wolwowicz has earned the not-so-easy admiration of fellow chefs. A remarkable culinary gymnast who cooks with skill and dedication his menus reflect dishes crafted from local, regional and seasonal products that are executed with innovation. There is the luxury of ample well-lit parking. 310 Springbank Drive, 519-657-1100

The Raja

The Raja exudes elegance and a level of luxury befitting its name. Many dishes beg for overindulgence. Share the mixed platter with vegetable pakora, chicken tikka, sheek kabab, and onion bhajee, all served on a sizzling platter. The dining room has character and sophistication with its marble floors, deep red painted walls and white accents. 428 Clarence St. (North of Dundas) 519-601-7252

The River Room

Jess Jazey-Spoelstra’s River Room, inside Museum London, has banks of tinted windows with panoramic views overlooking the Forks of the Thames. This superb lunch spot has the clubby ambience of a Manhattan restaurant, with its casual, tailored décor and New York attitude. Open Tues.–Fri., from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., and Sunday for Brunch. The River Room will be open for dinner during the World Figure Skating Championships. Museum London, Ridout Street N. 519- 850-2287

Tamarine by Quynh Nhi

This sleek and urban-chic spot has a sophisticated palette and an upscale mix of contemporary Asian-inspired motifs, art, cuisine and ambiance. Chefs Quynh and Nhi combine the freshest ingredients with traditional flavours to create a unique menus designed to promote communal dining. Long Phan is your charming and knowledgeable host. 118 Dundas Street 519 601 8276


In Ontario's Southwest, we are very fortunate to have many talented chefs, restaurateurs and retailers who are not just advocating “eating and drinking local” and “eating seasonal,” they are actively and creatively enhancing and developing new region-specific cuisines. As for their cuisine, it’s made from scratch and it’s innovative. They are implementing time-honoured traditions and trusted techniques yet delivering ingredients in revolutionary ways. They are the new culinary vanguards. Many of these trailblazers of the cutting-edge and emerging culinary regionalism in Ontario's Southwest are profiled on this blog. Our true culinary stars are not only our farmers, but also those labouring in restaurant, hotel and market kitchens throughout the city, offering up some of Ontario’s finest food and most innovative drink experiences.